Jane Austen Festival KY 2017: Stays and Chemise

Jane Austen Festival 2017

After a grueling semester and a not so good grade in Physics I was looking for some kind of escape. I wanted to get more serious about sewing but I didn't know how to read a pattern or how to use my machine (honestly it used to hate me). I wanted to start with something simple but I didn't want to make a costume for no reason. Then I found the Jane Austen Festival in KY.

The festival occurs in June and I found out about it at the start of May. So I only had a month to pull together a chemise, stays, and a drawstring gown. Note that I have never made any of these things, especially something that is corset like.

So naturally I had to choose a pattern first. The most user friendly one that I found was The Elegant Ladies Closet Pattern and the Regency Underthings Pattern from Sense and Sensibility. I read all of the instructions (or so I thought) and then got started on the chemise.

Patterns used

I'm glad I started with the chemise because it was an absolute mess! For some reason I thought I had to add extra seam allowances. They are already in the pattern and I somehow overlooked it. This became an issue with the armpit gussets. I finally had to cut the excess away just to make it fit properly. I hope to remake it before I attend next years festival.  But I got it done and it only took a week. 

Completed Chemise

Next I wanted to tackle the stays.  Starting with the foundation is very important to get the proper look for the time period. Plus it would give me room to make mistakes that won't be seen. And let me tell you...I made some mistakes.

Interlining

Helper dog is not helping

All three layers put together

More 'helping'


The construction portion was easy. Since I had never made anything like it before I took my time to make sure I was doing it properly. Instead of hand sewing the eyelets I used grommets, which I will never do again because they are horrible. But I do have to say that the instructions were very easy to follow but I did make one large mistake (literally.)  I made it too big.

The face of defeat


Apparently I'm not very good at measuring myself and it was waaay too large. I ended up having to take in over an inch in the back. Then I also noted that the front stuck out way above my chest. I don't really know how to fix that so I left it the way it was.

After taking in the back

Side View


By this time I had been working on them for about 3 weeks. I was tired of looking at them and just wanted them to be finished. So I fixed the difference in the back and went ahead and binded everything. Hopefully in the future I will be able to remake them and size them a bit smaller.

Stays almost complete

Now, for the final word on the pattern I used.

Would I use this pattern again?
Yes! Construction was easy I just suck at sizing.

Would I recommend it to someone that is just getting into this time period?
Yes, but make sure you ask for help especially when it comes to sizing. I apparently can't size properly even after making a few toiles.

Is it historically accurate?
As far as I know yes, although I didn't hand stitch them.

Finally I like to go over what new skills I have learned.

-Boning
-Making three layered garments
-Grommets
-Drawstring casings
-Making my own bias tape
-Making gussets
-Using a pattern

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