Brown Elizabethan Kirtle

I started this kirtle back in August 2017 after being successful in making my first historical-ish costume for the Jane Austen Festival. I was hoping that I would get done before my classes started at the end of August so I could wear it to the Renaissance Festival in September but that didn't happen. Now 6 months later it is finally complete!

Kirtle sketch

The pattern that I used for this kirtle was the Reconstructing History Elizabethan Common womens Outfit. I am still very much a beginner sewer so I thought I could handle this pattern. To be honest, I couldn't. The instructions were too vague for my taste; I actually had to reference other books (Tudor Tailor) and the internet to figure out what to do a few times. A pictorial guide would have been wonderful in addition to the instructions.

First I tried making the bodice. This was the hardest portion for me. I was confused about their 'kirtle' pattern because there seemed to be no way for the sides to connect to one another. I actually ended up using the over gown pattern as the kirtle bodice. 

My next problem was closure. For some reason no matter how hard I tried I could not get the closure to be in the front. I made 3 mock-ups before I turned to the Tudor Tailor book and discovered some insight. It stated that if you were planning on making an over gown (which I am planning on doing) that the ties should be on the side.   Needless to say I had a eureka moment and I decided to do side lacing. 

Failed front closing bodice #3

Side lacing mock-up

Once this was complete and the mock-up fit I was finally ready to cut my fabric.  I was very hesitant to do this because I only had 6 yards. I bought the rest of the entire bolt from an Amish fabric store and was scared it wasn't going to be enough. Plus it was the only wool I could find for a good price in my area. (When I say my area, I also mean 2 1/2 hours away.)

That was another thing I didn't like about this pattern; the yardage it recommended for the kirtle wasn't broken down in sizes. It just said 6 yards was to be used for the largest size. I ended up having quite a bit leftover which was good, but also seemed like a waste of money. But I digress.

For the bodice I used unicorn buckram for the interlining, white linen for the lining, and brown wool for the outer layer. Unicorn buckram is my new favorite thing. It is so easy to work with.

Bodice fitting

I really need a dress form my size

When I finally got the bodice done I did the hand sewn eyelets. The last time I had to do any kind of eyelets I used metal eyelets and vowed to never use them again because they were so unforgiving. I can now say that I really prefer hand sewn eyelets even if they take much longer to complete. My first ones were a bit wonky but they improved with practice. 

Once the eyelets were done I went ahead and did the skirts. I went with rectangular skirts because it used less fabric. I was still scared of running out so it was better to play it safe.

Wonky eyelets

Bodice and skirt, plus a lazy dog

Next I started on the smock. The directions here were also quite vague for my tastes but I was able to make it work. I will probably have to remake this because the neckline doesn't sit the way I want but that is a future project. Or I could just cut it into a square neckline and call it a day.

Smock in progress

Trying on smock and kirtle with some 'adjusting'. Neckline is not what I want.

I was so grateful when the main parts of the costume were done. It had been difficult but I finished it.  All that was left was the accessories. I chose to make an apron, a partlet that is pinned to the front of the kirtle, and a coif. These were fairly easy to complete during the week or on the weekends when I had some down time from classwork.

The apron was just a simple square of linen tucked into a linen cord at the waist.I think I may have made it too big so I am going to size it down some.  The partlet is by far my favorite piece; I feel so regal wearing it even though I am just a common-woman! Finally the coif was a challenge because I have long thick hair. I had to add an inch to the folded edge to be able to cover my hair in a bun.

100% linen tuck-in apron

Melton black wool partlet with 100% linen lining

100% linen coif

Left; how I thought I wanted the apron to look.
Right; how I really want it to look.

Now, for the final word on the pattern I used.

Would I use this pattern again?
Probably, now that I know how to work it.

Would I recommend it to someone that is just getting into this time period?
No. I would probably direct them to The Tudor Tailor. If I would have known about the Tudor Tailor patterns I would have used it. I got the book halfway through the project and it was a great source. There were times I almost abandoned this pattern for the Tudor Tailor one but because I was a broke college student that wouldn't have made sense.

Is it historically accurate?
I wasn't really going for historically accurate because a.) I'm really busy and b.) I am lazy when I am not busy. I did use quite a bit of machine stitching but none of it is visible. Anything that was visible was hand stitched.

Finally I like to go over what I learned using this pattern. It lets me know I am making progress. <3

-How to hand sew eyelets
-How to do side lacing
-How to use unicorn buckram
-Sewing a smock without a pattern
-Making a coif
-Making a partlet

And here is some more photos of the finished product.